Meeting the Star

Published on: 16/12/2024

Photo title: Star Tortoise

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Photo Credits: Vikram Nanjappa

The droning engine of our safari vehicle lulled my fellow-adventurer in a sweet sleep. A purple sky,the gentle forest breeze, and wild fragrances filled the scene - evening was upon us at Daroji Sloth Bear sanctuary in Hampi. The giant-face shaped boulders appeared golden at this hour. My fellow-adventurer and I had spent the morning exploring the protected habitat of the descendants of the Indian epic superhero - Jambvan. After all, we were in Kishkindha!

Talking about origin stories my fellow-adventurer, a local, decided to halt mid journey and enlighten me on how the Vijayanagara kingdom came to be. The first warriors Hakka and Bukka once came on horseback, commissioned by the Sultan in Delhi, in search of a land that would effectively protect the rulers from invasions. Chasing dogs that were chasing a hare the duo Hakka Bukka encountered the sage Vidyaranya. They witnessed how the brave hare, although cornered, barked at the dogs and stunned them into a retreat. This was odd, thought Hakka and Bukka - how could a hare possibly bark? Such is the power of this sacred land, said the wise Vidyaranya. It endows virtues and powers on those who live here. This legend, they say, became the keystone of the history of Hampi and the foundation of the Sangama rule. I wondered if indeed the wildlife around the region is blessed with special powers and if so, would I be lucky enough to experience it?

Known earlier as the Bilikallu Reserve Forest, the Daroji Sloth Bear Sanctuary was born only in 1994. The Forest Department and authorities have since then worked tooth and nail to convert the once barren region into a lush forest. In addition to handsome sloth bears the sanctuary is home to leopards, pangolin, jackals and even the much sought after Indian star tortoise. The local folk believe it is auspicious to have them in the village as they represent good luck and prosperity. Perhaps it is this that makes them one of most frequently poached victims of wildlife.

Photo title: Star Tortoise

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Photo Credits: Vikram Nanjappa

Statistics indicate that about 21,000 Indian star tortoises are illegally smuggled out of the country, and only 3,000 of them are successfully rescued. The numbers are staggering indeed. These rather cute and mute animals make wonderful pets and are in demand across Southeast Asia. Also heavily hunted for their meat and decorative shells, the Indian star tortoises of the south (Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Karnataka) always make it to the Most Wanted list.

After an hour of looking for these shy creatures I willingly gave up. With a yawn that would put lions to shame I began rummaging my backpack for the lens cap - it was time to wrap up.

“Look, there in the bushes!”, our driver whispered with urgency in his voice. We drove stealthily, as softly a Jeep possibly can, alongside the bushes. Sure enough! Perfectly camouflaged in the reedy green and yellow, out came a rather stout Indian star tortoise. “She is undeniably beautiful!”, my partner said as he continued to gaze through the binoculars. I hurriedly set up my camera for a close up, hoping for a clear shot. A shell crafted with such precision and beauty deserves special words to describe it. The female had probably come out for an evening walk and decided to grab a snack on the way. We, of course, were rude peepers. Beautifully marked with ‘stars’ the tortoise quietly made its way out of the undergrowth and then back into it. A glimpse was not enough. We waited for a rendezvous with the ‘star’ but as dusk paraded through these lush forests, we were courteously shown the door out.

What would the world be without such magnificent creatures out in the wild?

Preanka Roy

Preanka Roy is an adventurist by chance and a creative director by choice. With years of experience in Advertising, Marketing and Journalism behind her, Preanka has served at prominent organisations across India. An avid reader, author and published poet she enjoys different approaches to creative writing. Her deep love for the forests of South India has inspired her to take on environmental activism and forward the cause of wildlife conservation through photography.

Coorg

Hampi

Kabini

Kalahari

Meeting the Star

Preanka Roy