Anegundi: ‘Monkey Business’ in the ‘Elephant Pit’

Published on: 14/10/2024

Photo title: Anegundi Fort

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Photo Credits: Alok Ranjan

In the shadows of Hampe, hemmed to River Tungabhadra, there is a ‘pit’ that holds monuments humming riveting stories. And it’s worth falling into.

Pits are normally not the most welcoming of places. They are normally a geographical feature to avoid assiduously. Pitfalls are largely unpleasant. But a pit that is more like a rabbit hole, unravelled and exposed to the surface, throbbing with stories? Now that’s fascinating.

There is precisely such a pit in Hampe, and it’s called Anegundi.

Literally ‘elephant pit’, Anegundi houses a range of monumental treasures, from the tomb of king Krishnadevaraya, with its sixty-four pillars representing as many ‘vidyas’ he mastered and battles he won, to a little nook where huge footprints, believed to have been left by Rama and Lakshmana after they killed the vaanara king Vali.

Heritage is often buttressed by legend, and the legend here is that Rama and Lakshmana met Sugreeva during their quest for Sita, who was abducted by Ravana. An agreement was made that Rama should kill Vali, the king of Kishkindha, for Sugreeva. During the first battle, Rama could not tell between Vali and Sugreeva as they were identical. Rama did ‘chinta’ (contemplation or worry) about defeating Vali, and thus giving this place the name of Chintamani Devalaya.

Fittingly, it today affords a view of River Tungabhadra worth contemplating. Who knew pits could be vantage points too!

Expanding your vision is also a Rama Cave where the protagonist of Ramayana is said to have strategised the war with Lakshmana, Hanuman (the revered monkey god) and Sugreeva. Outside the cave is the Rama Kunda, another mythical relic not to be missed.

Meanwhile, rising gloriously on the horizon, the Anjanadri Hill is recognised as the birthplace of Hanuman. From its zenith, you can behold panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. This hill is at once both a spiritual and scenic retreat for pilgrims and seekers of beauty alike.

Photo title: Durga Temple

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Photo Credits: Alok Ranjan

Further down this surface rabbit hole, at the foot of the Anjanadri Hill is a sacred water tank called Pampa Sarovar, which too spouts mythological stories.It is here, legends say, that Sita performed penance during her captivity under the demon king Ravana. Even today, pilgrims visit its tranquil presence, seeking solace and spiritual renewal.

Dating back to the Vijayanagara era, Huchappayana Matha is a centuries-old monastery renowned for its exquisite architecture and intricate carvings. Dedicated to the 12th-century saint Huchappa, this matha’s hallowed precincts exude serenity and beauty, drawing devotees and history enthusiasts alike.

Perched on a tiny island in the Tungabhadra River, Navabrindavana is a sacred pilgrimage site revered by followers of the Dvaita school of Hindu philosophy. It enshrines the nine samadhis (final resting places) of saintly figures, including the revered guru Vyasaraja Tirtha. Amidst the Ramayana related stories, the Navabrindavana evokes a sense of spiritual contemplation.

As if to protect all these riches is a silent sentinel made more mystical by the flow of time through it: the Anegundi Fort. It stands as a witness to the region’s tumultuous history. Constructed in the 14th century by the Vijayanagara kings, it served as a strategic bastion guarding the erstwhile capital against invading forces. Today, its ramparts and crumbling bastions echo with whispers of a bygone era, inviting visitors to mull over the mysteries of the past.

Another testament to the architectural prowess of the Vijayanagara Empire is the gorgeous Gagan Mahal. It once served as the royal palace of the local chieftains. Its sprawling courtyards, intricately ornate arches and carved pillars are evidence of the grandeur of the heydays of the Vijayanagara dynasty.

Dedicated to Lord Ranganatha, an incarnation of the Hindu god Vishnu, the austere Ranganatha Temple is a masterpiece of Dravidian architecture. Its towering, signature gopuram (gateway tower), adorned with sculpted deities and mythical creatures, beckons not only devotees but also art lovers to marvel at its splendour.

And so you see that each monument in Anegundi is like a chapter of a civilisation that pulsates with vigour even today. When you traverse its ancient streets, you will travel back in mythological timescapes when monkey gods helped divine incarnations in trouble and elephants were used in warfare. Hardly a pitfall, then.

Sourabha Rao

Sourabha Rao is a professional writer, poet, translator, former freelance columnist and voiceover artist, with literary proficiency in English and Kannada. She deeply cares about producing stories primarily on nature and wildlife, social issues, history and art. She strives to write truthfully and creatively in an earnest attempt to create content that educates and entertains, has impact, and mobilises positive social change. She has written op-eds and photo-stories for leading Kannada and English newspapers, and has collaborated with filmmakers in wildlife conservation and water conservation. Sourabha lives in Bengaluru, while a big chunk of her heart has stayed back in Mysuru, her forever-muse.

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Anegundi: ‘Monkey Business’ in the ‘Elephant Pit’

Sourabha Rao